Pearl necklace, amethyst, garnet: what are pearls and semi-precious stones worth?
The honest answer first: with most pearl necklaces and pieces with amethyst, garnet or citrine, the resale value lies in the gold or silver, not in the pearls or stones. There are exceptions, and they are easy to recognise.
Natural, cultured and imitation pearls
A natural pearl grows in a mollusc without human help and is very rare. Almost all pearls in jewellery made since the early twentieth century are cultured pearls: a farmer inserts a nucleus or a piece of tissue into the shell, and the animal then coats it with nacre. Imitation pearls are glass or plastic with a pearly coating.
A simple first check: rub a pearl gently along the edge of your teeth. Real pearls, natural or cultured, feel slightly gritty; imitations feel smooth. You only know for certain after testing.
What decides the value of a pearl necklace?
Most pearl necklaces consist of cultured freshwater or Akoya pearls. These are farmed in large quantities and have little second-hand trade value. Large South Sea and Tahitian pearls of good quality are higher. For every pearl, the following count:
- Lustre: how sharply a pearl reflects light.
- Size, in millimetres.
- Shape: the rounder, the rarer.
- Surface: pits and spots lower the value.
- Matching: how well the pearls of a necklace go together.
Look at the clasp. A pearl necklace often has a clasp of 14 or 18 carat gold, sometimes with a small diamond. That clasp has ordinary material value, even if the pearls bring in little.
Amethyst, garnet, aquamarine: semi-precious stones
'Semi-precious stone' is an old trade term for coloured stones such as amethyst, garnet, citrine, topaz, peridot, aquamarine and tanzanite. Gemmologists hardly use the term any more, but the distinction it makes largely holds: most of these stones are common and have a modest trade value per stone.
Exceptions are large stones of top quality, especially aquamarine and tanzanite, and stones in a signed piece from a well-known house. There, the stone or the design can bring in more than the metal.
How we assess a piece with pearls or stones
- The precious metal first. We determine the fineness, weigh the piece and fairly deduct the weight of pearls and stones. We pay for the metal at the day’s rate.
- Then the stones. Our gemmologists check whether there is a stone or pearl that means something as a stone.
- Then the whole. If a piece is worth more as jewellery than its parts, a signed design for instance, we say so, and also when an auction or specialist dealer can offer more than we can.
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Questions about pearl necklace, amethyst, garnet: what are pearls and semi-precious stones worth
How much is a pearl necklace worth?
With most pearl necklaces, made of cultured freshwater or Akoya pearls, the second-hand trade value of the pearls is low. A gold clasp does have material value. Large South Sea or Tahitian pearls of good quality can bring in more.
How can I tell whether my pearls are real?
Rub a pearl gently along the edge of your teeth. Real pearls feel slightly gritty, imitations smooth. Whether a real pearl is natural or cultured can only be established by testing.
Is a piece with amethyst or garnet worth a lot?
Usually the value then lies in the gold or silver. Amethyst and garnet are common and have a modest trade value per stone. Large top-quality stones and signed jewellery are the exception.
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Sources
Where you can verify what you have just read.
- LBMAThe London gold and silver price our daily rate is built on
- WaarborgHollandThe Dutch assay office that verifies fineness and strikes hallmarks
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